Treats from the wild north: 10 of our favorite Icelandic delicacies
Treats from the wild north: 10 of our favorite Icelandic delicacies
By Taylor van Biljon
Grab a plate and a seat at the table, because today we’re exploring some of the greatest gems of the Icelandic palate.
Treats from the wild north: 10 of our favorite Icelandic delicacies
By Taylor van Biljon
Grab a plate and a seat at the table, because today we’re exploring some of the greatest gems of the Icelandic palate.
More often than not, Iceland is celebrated for its more unusual fare from days long past. But the true treasures of this place are in the surprising variety of fresh ingredients, simple traditions, and pristine nourishment that has sustained a people for hundreds of years, and continues to do so today.
Fiskisúpa (Fish Soup)
Fish soups are the beating heart of an seafaring place. Any person handy with a spoon has a recipe that belongs to them only, and everyone else has an opinion about it. You can ask anyone who serves their favorite version, but don’t be surprised when they say that no one makes it better than their grandma, as that is the usual standard. This is one of those dishes.
The penultimate fiskisúpa in Iceland is typically a tomato and cream based affair, with a bright coral-to-orange color and a velvety texture. This soup is loaded up with the local catch, and can be as varied as the chef prefers. These fish soups can range from salmon and cod all the way down to shrimp and scallops. It’s always a bit of a surprise.
While this is the more commonly occurring fish soup, it is not the only one. Iceland is a soup friendly place, and we would be amiss to not mention the various clear fish soups as well. These hit a different spot altogether and derive a great deal of their flavor from the hearty root vegetables that grant them so much of their color.
Skyr
Skyr has been a staple of the Icelandic diet since the land was settled in the 9th century. Nordic settlers brought the knowledge of skyr with them, and the production of it is continued to this day, so people have had a few moments to truly perfect it.
Similar to a Greek yogurt, Skyr is very much its own product, and is available in a myriad of flavors. It is not uncommon to find skyr in both savory and sweet recipes (much like its cousin yogurt), and it is still occasionally made on some farms in the old way for home use.
When you visit, don’t forget to try some- as skyr is best served in its natural habitat!
Laufabrauð (Leaf Bread)
You’ll have to visit in the winter holiday season to try this delicate favorite! Originating in the north of the country, laufabrauð is an intricately cut circular bread that is visually reminiscent of a paper snowflake or a star lantern.
The decorating is done with a “laufabrauðsjárn” (leaf bread iron), a metal roller that cuts the pattern into the dough, or with a skillfully wielded knife. These irons are passed down within families, and it is not uncommon for families to use specific patterns.
You can purchase laufabrauð in grocery stores and bakeries in the wintertime, but the making of it is very much a family affair. Produced in multiple steps, flattening, decorating, and frying- you can see how it could occupy an entire household.
This is another one of those things that is passed from generation to generation, from the tips and tricks of how to fry it without creating too many bubbles in the dough, to the skillful folding and cutting of the patterns.
This crispy treat kicks off the Icelandic festive season, and carries it through all the way into the end of winter, a memorable treat that clears the way for spring and the return of the longer days.
PLAN YOUR JOURNEY
Travelling to Iceland?
Check our overnight tours with a driver guide that includes a one night stay in a bubble.*Starting from ISK 74.900 per person
Pylsa
This is a treat so popular, that you can group people up by their opinions on how to name it. (Long live the Pylsa vs Pulsa name wars.) At first glance you may think, “Well this is merely a hot dog.” But you would be wrong!
The Icelandic pylsa is primarily made up of the world renowned grass fed Icelandic lamb, and that flavor profile makes all the difference. Roaming wild in the highlands all summer long eating berries and wild mountain herbs, a single pylsa brings with it all the flavors of the unspoiled Icelandic countryside.
Don’t forget to ask for “Ein með öllu”, so you can try it the way the locals are eating it. That means you’ll be getting one with tomato sauce, pylsusinnep, remúlaði, raw onions and fried onion, and on a brisk day after a swim, it is delicious.
Kjötsúpa (Meat Soup)
We’re back with more soup! (Hopefully you are a soup person, because this may not be the last one either.) You’ve been introduced to fish soup, now meet.. Meat soup. There is a theme of great simplicity here.
Despite Iceland’s deep and traditional relationship with the ocean, there is a history just as long of closeness to the land. When you’re clinging on to some of the only liveable rocks in the North Atlantic, it does make a bit of sense to develop some fondness, doesn’t it? Well, that fondness is the never ending love letter of Kjötsúpa.
Typically served with lamb and various root vegetables, Kjötsúpa is a gift on a cold day. In fact, if you’re in Reykjavik around the first day of winter in late October, you can experience Kjótsúpudagurinn, or Meat Soup Day, when the shop owners of the high street (Skólavörðustígur) serve their very own meat soups to the populace.
Like all soups, you will find that these can differ slightly depending on the person holding the ladle, but you can bet that each bowl is imbued with the ancient winter-bracing magic that all family soup recipes seem to hold.
Plokkfiskur
Like many beloved dishes, Plokkfiskur was created to sustain a working people in tough conditions. Another straightforward dish, this thick stew is primarily comprised of fish, milk, potatoes and onions.
Different recipes may add their own assortment of spices or toppings, but these main ingredients are the pillars of this dish. Best served with bread and lots of butter, don’t forget to seek this out when you visit. (You may need a nap afterwards however, so don’t eat too far away from your Bubble.)
The Catch of the Day: Fresh fish!
This one seems obvious, but it would be criminal to sing the praises of Iceland’s table without it. Iceland exists among a veritable myriad of sealife.
Though the most popular are typically Cod (Þorskur) and Haddock (Ýsa), others such as: Halibut (Lúða), Redfish (Karfi), Atlantic Catfish/Wolffish (Steinbítur), Pollock (Ufsi), Mackerel (Makríll), and, Herring (Síld), are typically consumed as well.
And this isn’t even close to being all of them! There are believed to be around 340 different fish varieties in this area of the North Atlantic, especially as Iceland rests between two distinct ecological zones.
And beyond this, there are freshwater finds here as well. Some of the most pristine Arctic Char (Bleikja) and Atlantic Salmon (Lax) in the world inhabit Iceland’s inland waters. Fishermen in the audience may be wondering at the absence of the legendary Brown Trout (Urriði)- as the isolated trout in Þingvallavatn are some of the biggest ever reported- but their unique lives are protected by law and they cannot be consumed.
There are other areas in the country where one can catch Sea Brown Trout, which can indeed be eaten. You will have to go up against Eric Clapton for the record though, if you’re a competitive sort.
Fish has been a founding staple of the Icelandic diet for centuries, and can be found in most treasured recipes and meals. It continues to maintain its place on the table today, hopefully for many years to come.
Humar (Lobster)
At the risk of appearing too soup-happy, I have avoided putting Humarsúpa here, and will instead be singing the praises of its main ingredient, the Icelandic Lobster. (Ok, maybe it is truly called a Langoustine or Norway Lobster, but it is kind of a big deal here, so we are only calling it “Lobster”, because well, it is rather famous.)
Often served grilled or with delicate buttery sauces, the Humar is also the star of another treasured soup, Humarsúpa, or you guessed it, Lobster Soup. (Simplicity is the only way when you are working with pristine ingredients.)
Served in a broth not unlike Fish Soup, Lobster Soup is often a bit more on the orange side, and is more likely to include a curry base and a dollop of cream on top. There are multiple restaurants that specialize in the preparation of these delicacies, but the lobster capital of Iceland can only be said to be Höfn.
Tucked away in the east under the towering glory of Vestrahorn, Höfn means “harbor”, as it is one of the only natural harbors in the south. If you find yourself on a south coast adventure, this is a place not to be passed over. In the summer they hold the Humarhátíð (Lobster Festival), and if you love this tasty treat as much as we do, you’ll be careful not to miss it.
Hangikjöt
Typically enjoyed around the winter festive season, Hangikjöt continues the tradition of calling it like you see it, and literally means “Hung Meat”. This name refers to the practice of smoking the meat by hanging it from the ceiling and burning a fire under it for a few weeks.
The meat is usually lamb, and harkens back to a day where preservation of resources was vital for survival. Iceland is known for its various preservative methods, including treats like cured Hákarl, Saltkjöt, and the many salted, brined, dried, and, maintained delicacies paraded out every Þorrablót.
Not all of these things are consumed regularly anymore, but many of them do reappear around their respective holidays and they serve as a reminder of the great efforts that early Icelanders went through to make it here. Hangikjöt however, is most often a Christmas time treat, and when it’s on the table, Laufabrauð is not far away.
But, should you only make it to our shores outside of the winter season, you can still try the famous birch smoked Hangikjöt, in sandwich form! A popular sandwich filling, nearly any grocery will carry the Hangikjöt og baunasalat samloka (Smoked Lamb and Bean Salad sandwich), and they are nearly as good as Christmas.
(There are many reasons to come back and visit Iceland in different seasons, but seasonal food and drink is certainly one of the strongest.)
Kleinur and Ástarpungar
We have behaved ourselves, and are ending this thing on a sweet note. Though they are different in their own right, these fried treats are both too good to leave one off; so they will share a section as they so often share a deep fryer.
Named for the thin shape of the long sliced diamond that forms them, many Kleinur are anything but small. Popular with coffee like the Ástarpungar, these are Iceland’s answer to the donut. They come in many light, subtle flavors and twisted shapes, and can even be found coated in chocolate.
The Ástarpungar on the other hand, is the round sibling of the Kleina. Their name roughly translates to “Love sacks” (Or pouches), and they require frying as well so they often happen at the same time as Kleinur. They are filled with raisins (and if you’ve been reading along with us you would know that this is an excellent and rare thing to be celebrated! So it is truly no wonder that they are viewed as being full of love.)
These treats can both be found at any bakery, and often in grocery stores as well. The Kleinur are a bit easier to find, but a good bakery can often help you out with some Ástarpungar. Don’t forget to bring one back to your Bubble for a late night snack- nothing hits the spot like sharing a Love Pouch with your loved one under the stars.
PLAN YOUR JOURNEY
Travelling to Iceland?
Check our overnight tours with a driver guide that includes a one night stay in a bubble.*Starting from ISK 74.900 per person
The Benefits of Icelandic Moss | About Iceland's Rich Plant Life
All About Icelandic Moss
By Michael Chapman
Discover a volcanic landscape blanketed with unique plant life.
All About Icelandic Moss
By Michael Chapman
Discover a volcanic landscape blanketed with unique plant life.
Travellers to Iceland quickly note the absence of trees; in their place, they find a rugged landscape of ancient lava rock, much of which is covered by a thick and cosy blanket of Icelandic moss, or Cetraria islandica.
Icelandic moss is as much a part of nature here as the waterfalls, glaciers and black sand beaches that have made this island a favourite among travellers worldwide.
The moss adds a particular fantastical element to many viewpoints, and it is all too easy to imagine a supernatural race of elves, or Huldufólk, living amongst the lichen. While that might seem far fetched, rest easy knowing Icelandic moss is a brilliant habitat for many thousands of tiny microorganisms.
PLAN YOUR JOURNEY
Travelling to Iceland?
Check our overnight tours with a driver guide that includes a one night stay in a bubble.*Starting from ISK 74.900 per person
What is Icelandic moss?
For the sake of transparency, it only fits to clarify that Icelandic moss is not a moss at all but rather a lichen. At one time or another, its leafy, cushioned and upright appearance led to this misnomer, and it has stuck ever since. However, do not be fooled; Cetraria islandica is still officially part of the fungi kingdom, formally recorded by Swedish botanist Erik Acharius in 1802.
Despite the misnaming, one would think Icelandic moss is exclusively found in Iceland. The opposite is true, in fact. Icelandic moss can be found in mountainous areas of many places, including the northern UK, Newfoundland, and the Appalachians’ highest elevations, to name just a few. There are, in fact, over 600 species of moss in Iceland alone, the most common being a species called woolly fringe-moss.
How does Icelandic moss grow?
When it comes to reproduction, moss is an incredibly resilient plant capable of producing sporophytes both sexually and asexually. In the latter case, new plants will form from broken off stems, though it will take many decades to start spreading out.
Because of a lack of roots or soil depths, the moss can never grow very high, but instead moves out over far distances, soaking up water from the earth and sun rays from above. With that said, the moss’ growth is extremely prolonged, increasing in size by only 1 cm each year.
Is consuming Icelandic moss healthy?
Icelandic moss is known to have many health benefits. As such, it is a staple of many herbal remedies sold across the country. According to some chemists, Icelandic moss stimulates the salivary glands, increases appetite and lines the stomach with healthy membranes. Aside from that, the plant is known to help soothe a dry cough, among many other uncomfortable ailments.
According to most scientists, more evidence is needed to verify just how beneficial Icelandic moss is for these issues. With that said, both the Herbal Medicinal Products (HMPC) and the scientific advisory board, German Commission E, have found the medicinal use of Icelandic moss to have no detrimental effects at all. Some people digest it as tea; others routinely use a tincture.
In bygone times, Icelandic moss was far more popularly used in cooking and was considered a staple ingredient in bread, porridge, and soups. Today, only a tiny handful of chefs and distilleries in Reykjavik include lichen as part of their menu, Fjallagrasa Icelandic Schnapps being one notable example.
Why is it important to protect Icelandic moss?
Icelandic moss is a vital part of this island’s ecosystem, crucial not only to the aesthetic but also to soil fertility and humidity. Many people are not aware of this, nor do they understand just how fragile the plant is and how long it takes to repair. Whilst above we mentioned the moss’ resilience, it is undeniably weak when it comes to trampling by man or animals.
Writing this is not mere doom and gloom, nor should it be a section to briefly read over and then dismiss as obvious. There are mossy hillsides in the countryside that, many years ago, were deliberately vandalised, with names and crass symbols carved out in giant lettering for all to see. Decades on and still these scars remain, serving as a cold, unfortunate reminder that a reckless attitude towards nature has lasting consequences.
How can you help protect Iceland’s moss?
At Þingvellir National Park, visitors will find signs warning them against walking on the moss for fear of a hefty fine. However, in most cases, conservation comes down to how individuals treat the environment around them.
Let us remember that much of Iceland’s vast wilderness is untouched, untameable and unsupervised, which is all the more reason to leave each site untampered with. After all, the parts of the country that draw visitors are those seen to be raw and natural to the point of defying expectations.
PLAN YOUR JOURNEY
Travelling to Iceland?
Check our overnight tours with a driver guide that includes a one night stay in a bubble.*Starting from ISK 74.900 per person
“10 Drops” of Icelandic Wisdom: Some of our favorite Icelandic sayings
“10 Drops” of Icelandic Wisdom: Some of our favorite Icelandic sayings
By Taylor van Biljon
Level up your Icelandic wisdom with some of these sayings and proverbs!
“10 Drops” of Icelandic Wisdom: Some of our favorite Icelandic sayings
By Taylor van Biljon
Level up your Icelandic wisdom with some of these sayings and proverbs!
Icelandic sayings, like all idiomatic and metaphorical language, are a reflection of the culture and the people that they belong to. Like a sort of touchstone throughout time, these sayings have been crafted from the experiences and known truths of the people that coined them- and though some of them may sound a bit mysterious to us now, their meanings reach back to us over the centuries- connecting us all once again through the story of shared existence.
A smá note before we head off on our journey:
Humans love stories. We love to imagine ridiculous things, to dream up bizarre visuals and juxtapose the real with the unreal. It has always been one of the ways that we connect and anchor ourselves to this world, while reaching out to fellow souls.
Many of these sayings are great examples of that innate drive to create above all things. Imagine the power of some of these in a time before television! A chance to make some humor in a dark time, or to veer closer to a shared understanding. Is it with you, as it is with me?
It is easy to see how these attempts to connect to other people would have been popular, as they continue to be even now.
It is also good to note- that language travels with people, and is often historically changed by those movements. Though the Icelandic language did insulate itself fairly well for many years, there is always a chance that a saying was borrowed or adapted from another culture, or another meaning that has since changed over time. Iceland was settled by some of the most intrepid voyagers in this hemisphere, and despite being an island, visitors and returning residents continued to bring the treasures of their culture on their treacherous journeys.
We know the origin of some of these sayings, and some of them we can guess. But others are so ingrained in the colloquial speech of the day that they are just like ancient trees in the heath. We came here long after them- and we can only guess at the things they have seen.
It is that way with many of these- so if you have a scrap of knowledge to add, let us know! Despite their firm standing in the cultural lexicon of a place, it is also possible that interpretations of a proverbial meaning may vary. Half of the fun of these riddles of speech is in the discovery.
PLAN YOUR JOURNEY
Travelling to Iceland?
Check our overnight tours with a driver guide that includes a one night stay in a bubble.*Starting from ISK 74.900 per person
Saying: “að brynna músum”
Literal meaning: “to water the mice”
Intended meaning: to cry
We open our journey through some of our favorite Icelandic sayings with this one, a tiny yet colorful quip about crying. (Something that probably happened more often than not, back when the ownership of a single candle signified great wealth.)
Upon hearing this, it is hard not to be a bit charmed- but also to imagine the great scale at play. The picture of a giant human tear dropping down on a tiny mouse. So many cartoons come to mind! Some things never change, and I imagine that includes the need to inject a little humor into a sad situation, or, perhaps to poke some fun. So when you see somebody having a good cry, now you finally have something to say about it! (Or maybe not.)
Saying: “gera hreint fyrir sínum dyrum”
Literal meaning: “to clean one’s door” or “to clean the step to one’s door”
Intended meaning: to clean up your act or explain yourself
If you look for it, you’ll actually find this saying in regular circulation in the news. Typically it comes around when someone is behaving badly, and not owning up to it. You may know someone like that, yourself!
So feel free to reserve the use of this shameful rebuke on the next badly behaved entity that you find yourself interacting with; and let them know- go clean your door! There’s nothing like having the dirtiest door in the village to make you stop and reconsider your life path.
Saying: “Þar stóð hnífurinn í kúnni.”
Literal meaning: “there stands the knife in the cow” or “now the knife’s stuck in the cow”
Intended meaning: Now you’ve done it.
You will also find this little gem in the Icelandic news. A fitting sentiment for discussing the popular news of the day, this one certainly paints a picture. Imagine the context of this- “well, now you’ve really stuck a knife in the cow.” Denoting a discernible problem, this saying really makes you wonder.
In the long timeline of an agrarian society, were many knives lost in cows? Was it a regular occurrence to accidentally find one there? Maybe you were having a conversation with a neighbor, gesticulating wildly while searching for a vibrant enough phrase to describe a situation you found yourself in, and, well! The knife you were holding has been pulled by the cruel claw of gravity and physics, and is now sheathed in a nearby cow.
What a day. You needed this cow to last the winter. You do certainly have a problem, now. So does the cow. At least there will be steaks.
(21st Century tip: For us the working version of this problem proclamation would be: “Well now you’ve really stuck a knife in the Bubble.” Because that would indeed be somewhat of a problem for us.)
Saying: “rúsínan í pylsuendanum”
Literal meaning: “the raisin in the sausage end” or “the raisin in the end of the Icelandic hot dog”
Intended meaning: this phrase is used to describe a good surprise, or an excellent thing
Showing the mirror quality of sayings throughout cultures- this is a saying you may feel familiar with! Similar to the “cherry on top” or “it’s gravy/frosting” type sentiments, this is a way to describe an excellent thing. (While not delving too deeply into the various meanings of the gravy sayings, we understand that gravy can be a contentious and hallowed thing.)
Calling upon the imagery of finding a tasty treat inside a larger dish- (something that most culinary cultures experience in one way or another), this saying does come with its bit of puzzlement. Because.. A raisin? A raisin in a hot dog?
Our ancestors are all likely standing around scoffing at our spoiled palates, because if you can believe it, this was once a real treat. You’ve been eating this sausage, which let’s be very honest here- is probably already a treat- and behold! Just before you finished it, you discovered a rare raisin. An oasis of sweetness in what we must assume was a desert of a sausage. Euphoria follows, as one must expect.
..And while you are distracted by the divine excitement of the secret raisin, may we just sneak in the fact that this saying is believed to have been co-opted from the Danes, which.. Well we are going to need another raisin, is all we’re saying.
Saying: “Sjaldan er ein báran stök.”
Literal meaning: “Rarely is one wave single.” or “There is seldom a singular wave.”
Intended meaning: Good or back luck is often followed by more of the same
Interestingly enough, this is a sentiment that is known world over. Similar to the saying “bad things come in threes” or “when it rains, it pours”, there is a feeling in many cultures that extreme occurrences come with an entourage.
Recorded in Arngrímur Sigurðsson’s idiom compendium and translation dictionary, Íslenzk-ensk orðabók is one of the most reputable places that we can see this phrase recorded in published text. It is easy to imagine that this is a local saying, but as with many of these phrases- it is hard to know the true origin for certain.
Iceland has always been very focused on maritime trade and activity, and the ocean is an omnipresent visual here. Many things can be leveraged and compared this way- from the behavior of waves and currents, to the cruel realities of the power of the sea and the human life.
So much here is given by the ocean, but so much has also been taken away. It is a sobering reminder, that all coastal living folk do well to remember.
Saying: “að mála skrattann á vegginn”
Literal meaning: “to paint the devil on the wall”
Intended meaning: to exaggerate
Another favorite of the news, is this act of exaggerating during a clash of minds. Who hasn’t been ensnared in a hot disagreement, and then upped the stakes by adding some drama? Well, perhaps you, and many of your ancestors, that’s who.
Imagine the scene- you and some peers are trying to work through a situation, and then one of you flamboyantly interrupts the action by painting an actual depiction of the devil on the wall. What a move!
It is brassy to say the least, potentially annoying, and certainly a statement, which I think was your initial goal to begin with. This is a great saying, because it truly encapsulates the feeling that it is trying to touch upon.
When you make that decision to turn the heat up, you are painting the devil on the wall, my friend.
Saying: “að slá einhverjum gullhamra”
Literal meaning: “to hit somebody with a golden hammer”
Intended meaning: to compliment someone
A striking visual indeed, is hitting someone with a golden hammer. Bringing back memories of “hitting on someone”, “killing someone with kindness”, and countless others, is this golden description of complimenting someone. And it works, doesn’t it!
Receiving a compliment can be a tiny bit painful, despite the golden glow of it. Imagine the fleeting embarrassment of being told you’re cool, or attractive, or talented. Suddenly the wisdom of the hammer analogy is revealed.
Saying: “Ég skal sýna þér í tvo heimana!”
Literal meaning: “I shall show you the two worlds!”
Intended meaning: this is a threat
Ever told someone you were going to knock them into next week? Or that you brought them into this life, and could take them back out of it as well? Perhaps, “meet your maker” comes to mind?
There are so many good fightin’ words to choose from- but these are truly excellent. This saying originates from the belief that upon death, one transits between two worlds.
The realm of those of us who are alive, and the one for those of us who aren’t. There are other interpretations of this, including the belief that there are two specific afterlives. (Any of this sound familiar?)
There are some specifics here that we could debate all day, (including whose religion believes this- it does appear to span a few,) but the point you should be walking away with is that this is a really cool line. We’re not saying you should pick a fight in order to use it, but.. You have to admit it’s pretty incendiary.
Saying: “Gakktu hægt um gleðinnar dyr.”
Literal meaning: “Walk slowly through the doors of joy.”
Intended meaning: Don’t get too excited and hurt yourself.
It appears that “all things in moderation” rears its responsible head even here in Iceland. A popular genre of saying, older generations have been carefully repeating this one to younger generations since the dawn of time, and likely will not stop anytime soon. (I think each of us has had an experience at some point that will remind us why that is.)
This is an old phrase, and it’s so important that it even shows up in music! You can hear a song that includes it here.
A favorite explanation of this saying comes to us from author and journalist Alda Sigmundsdóttir. The way that she tells it does not feel too detached from today (especially after this past year and a half)- but it relies on the understanding that back then, there were less opportunities to gather and “cut loose”.
When these opportunities did come around, you can imagine how it went. Let’s dip into our imaginations and see if we can absorb the descriptive goodness from this treasure of a proverb.
Now, after drinking and making merry with the friends you haven’t seen in an age, perhaps you find yourself in a bit of a state. And perhaps, while enjoying the hospitality of the farm that you were all celebrating at, you attempted to leave the epicenter of music and dance to get a breath of fresh air and straighten yourself out or- you know, clean your own doorstep. Ahem.
But you were having too good of a time, you hit your head on the doorframe when you left, and you cracked it with your extreme enthusiasm and destroyed the exit.
So when you find yourself in the hopefully near future, enjoying a wild night out with some friends- take care to remember this wisdom of wisdoms, and pump the breaks a bit before you venture through any doors. In every way that one can imagine.
Saying: “tíu dropar”
Literal meaning: “ten drops”
Intended meaning: this is a type of amount exaggeration typically related to coffee, but not limited to coffee.
So you’ve made it all the way to the end, and you can see that the title finally ties into the article, and that all shall be revealed with great drama!
This is a popular fragment phrase that has lent its name to music, the name of a popular establishment in Reykjavik, and of course the daily lexicon of many Icelandic people. But what does it mean, these ten drops?
It is not an atypical practice in various cultures to go through a great fuss and prepare an impressive meal to provide hospitality to your visitor.
There are many reasons for this- the modern evolution of hostly manners, the relationship of resources to cultures that have known austerity, and the custom of knowing about this austerity, and therefore refusing the hospitality in order to avoid bringing more of it upon your host. Things like this change and imbed themselves in our interactions over time, but the memory of them is still with us.
You may have heard someone ask if you’d like a “spot of tea”, or “a bite to eat”. These are phrases that often accompany an offering, as it has been in recent times an acceptable thing to present these things humbly. Food and drink of course are vital resources, so it makes sense that we consider their value, even if things are going quite well.
This saying is a hallmark of Icelandic culture, and despite its minutia, it tells the story of a people who survived difficult days but celebrated togetherness despite them. It means ten drops, yes; but it means ten drops for a friend, no matter how many drops you have left, and that is a beautiful thing.
PLAN YOUR JOURNEY
Travelling to Iceland?
Check our overnight tours with a driver guide that includes a one night stay in a bubble.*Starting from ISK 74.900 per person
The thundering majesty of Skógafoss: Adventures on the South Coast
The thundering majesty of Skógafoss: Adventures on the South Coast
By Taylor van Biljon
Next door to Seljalandsfoss, lay the massive falls of Skógafoss and the winding staircase to the top.
The thundering majesty of Skógafoss: Adventures on the South Coast
By Taylor van Biljon
Next door to Seljalandsfoss, lay the massive falls of Skógafoss and the winding staircase to the top.
Only two hours from the capital, is the breathtaking Skógafoss. At a staggering 25 m. across and 60 m. high, Skógafoss is one of the main jewels on a South Coast tour.
Skógafoss’ wild backyard
Skógafoss is one of many notable waterfalls in the municipality of Rangárþing eystra, on the south coast side of the Ring Road. This massive curtain fall is 60 m. high like it’s nearby cousin Seljalandsfoss, but is much wider at 25 m. across.
(After learning about the changes that Seljalandsfoss went through in the 60’s, one can only wonder if they looked more similar back then!)
Fed by the river Skógá, Skógafoss is also the grand finale in a series of gorgeous waterfalls. Nearly 25+ waterfalls are located in the river above Skógafoss in the Skógargil ravine, marking the first piece of the Fimmvörðuháls trail.
The waterfall portion of that hike is about 8 km. to and from, but the greater hike is a 25 km. trek across some of the newest mountains in the world, between the subglacial volcanic giants Eyjafjallajökull and Katla.
Fimmvörðuháls can be attempted from either end, at Thórsmörk or by ascending the winding staircase at Skógafoss.
If you begin on the Skógafoss side, the 25+ waterfall path is only the very first part of the lengthy trail, and you will soon find yourself passing mountain huts, wild Icelandic sheep, volcanic snowfields and plateaus, moraines, pumice fields, and, the young Magni and Móði mountains; before descending into the lush valley that is Thórsmörk.
(You can really add to your trek and take the Laugavegur Trail in the Fjallabak Nature Reserve, which will cost you an entire 55 kilometers through colorful Rhyolite mountains and fresh volcanic landscapes. This is mountain highland country however, and it takes even the best trekkers around 4 days to complete.
If you’d like to visit without hiking the entire stretch, you can drive a 4×4 via F roads into this area. Be warned, though, there are not petrol stations out this way, and the terrain is only recommended for experienced drivers with the correct vehicle.
River crossing in the highlands can be treacherous, and the conditions are very quickly changing even during the best part of the year. The Highlands are magnificent, but they are very much their own planet, and they follow their own set of rules.)
PLAN YOUR JOURNEY
Travelling to Iceland?
Check our overnight tours with a driver guide that includes a one night stay in a bubble.*Starting from ISK 74.900 per person
Visiting Skógafoss
Skógafoss, or “Forest Waterfall” as the name translates, is of course the biggest waterfall in the Skógá chain.
The shelf that Skógafoss careens over marks the former coastline of the country. The coast has since receded nearly 5 kilometers, exposing a vast lowland (sandur) shaped by glacial outpour and time.
These massive sand deserts are ever changing, and are home to braided rivers, fields of rare mosses, and the residual memory of the more fearsome volcanic activity of the past.
The wrath of subglacial eruptions have shaped this place, and the history of them has left this area with a fairly low population despite its fertile ground.
(These great stretches of black ground also happen to be home to a very popular abandoned plane wreck, who is silently standing sentinel on the shores of Sólheimasandur)
Despite the growth of its surroundings, Skógafoss remains one of the most spectacular residents of the area.
Skógafoss creates a massive amount of mist, which can create icy conditions in the area in the colder months. If you plan on getting close to the water, it can be a good idea to bring a walking aid with you while you find your “ice legs”.
In good sunlight, this impressive cloud of mist is known for producing incredible rainbows, which have been the dream of photographers world over for generations.
Skógafoss has also been outfitted with a staircase and observation platform that takes you all the way up to the top of the waterfall- with the most incredible view of the southern lowlands. There are nearly 530 steps though, so get ready for a climb!
The waterfall is served by a parking lot where one can use the restroom, and has at different times in its history hosted a fee for parking. At this time of this writing, that is no longer the case, but it can be good to be aware that parking, national park and attraction entry, and restroom use can at times require a small fee for usage.
These fees help support maintenance of the place, and can often be paid by card, but it is never a bad idea to have some small currency on hand for these types of expenses. (If you don’t use it, you can always spend it on Icelandic pylsur and chocolate at the petrol station! Or at least that is what ends up happening to all of my money.)
Little town of Skógar
Skógafoss lies directly off of Route 1 in the village of Skógar. The settlements of the village are split into two parts known commonly as: Ytri-Skógar (Outer or Western Skogar/Primary Skógar), and Eystri-Skógar (East Skógar).
Ytri-Skógar, or Skógar proper, is nestled between the Skógá and Kverná rivers and is home to Skógasafn, a cultural heritage museum that boasts a collection of over 18,000 regional artifacts.
This collection is spread out over a campus of 6 historical buildings (the open air museum) and 3 exhibition buildings, which includes the Technical Museum.
The church and farmstead in the village date back to 1890, and the museum parking lot is a popular place to start your hike to the nearby Kvernufoss waterfall- a canyon gem known for the mossy cavern behind it. This is certainly waterfall country!
Like something out of a story
After witnessing the grandeur of Skógafoss, it isn’t hard to imagine how many people have been moved to create art. Included in many paintings, photographs, and even in the spirit of a tradition of Icelandic literature and prose- Skógafoss was born of story, and lives on in story, through the work of both domestic and international film.
Mentioned in the old Saga tale of Þrasi Þórólfsson, the first Viking settler at Eystri-Skógar in the 900s, it is said that he hid a chest full of gold in the depths of the pool of Skógafoss. The verse says that the first to find this chest will find great treasure, but it is unclear whether the treasure remains- or if it was already recovered by one of the sons of Ámundi Þormóðsson.
The story says that one could just see the edge of the chest beneath the falls (though some interpret that it may be in the inaccessible cave behind the falls)- and that these sons went to retrieve it.
A few difficulties befell them on this quest, including the farm nearby catching fire and various other delusions, but they were eventually able to grip the chest by one of its golden handle rings.
After a great struggle the chest detached and fell deeper into the pool, evading capture. If this story is indeed true, then the ring on the church door of Skógar was that very ring that they made away with. Back in those days, it was not unusual to display such treasures at the local holy places, but imagine having such a thing right out there on the front door!
(But I suppose when your village has a population of approximately 20 people, it’s a bit easier to do.)
After many years and a few changes to the original church, the fabled ring was donated to the Skógasafn. You can now go to view that ring in the nearby cultural museum where it is protected and on display.
It does make you wonder, what else may lie beneath the thundering falls.. Perhaps a one ringed treasure chest still awaits? (I wouldn’t suggest having a look. The temperature and power of the falls are deterrent enough for me! You can hear Skógafoss’ booming voice from far enough away to know that a swim would not end well.)
There are other stories of Þrasi in the Þjóðsögur Jóns Árnasonar (The Folklore of Jón Árnason), including a tale about Þrasi and his neighbor Loðmundur, and about how their quarrel over land shaped the very river that runs through it.
They were both said to be in possession of magical ability, (which was not unheard of back in the settlement times.), and like many agrarian settlers, they fought over the border between their lands.
They changed this border and its features many times, which eroded the area and caused the great sand wastes. They eventually quelled their argument upon realizing the damaged they had caused to their surroundings, and agreed upon a final path for the river.
To this day it runs through that area, but the strange currents in it can be blamed on the two neighbors and their meddling.
So be careful about the fights that you foster with your village mates- you may end up putting an unnatural current in your local waterway!
These are among the older stories that we have about Skógafoss, and it is incredible to see its name in that archaic print. Despite the changing face of nature here, it is fascinating to imagine the Viking setters that once admired these falls, much like we do today.
But the admiration continues on, as Skógafoss continues to appear in new stories, even now. Skógafoss appears in many television programs, including popular hits like “Vikings” and “Game of Thrones”. You can also find it in films like “Dilwale”, “Thor: The Dark World”, “The Secret Life of Walter Mitty”, and music videos from artists like Sólstafir and Justin Bieber.
Immortalized in the historic poetry of the Sagas, and continually captured and recaptured today, it is safe to say that our admiration of the treasures of nature have not ceased over the generations. It would be near impossible not to marvel at the majesty of such a thing.
How to get to Skógafoss:
Fortunately, this wonder is only 25 minutes drive down Route 1 from Seljalandsfoss. Sitting a mere 2 hr (155.6 km) southeast from Reykjavik, Skógafoss is visible from the main road and is a similarly easy stop to make on a South Coast adventure.
This is a great day trip option, and a fun stop to make before heading off to the black sand beaches of nearby village Vík, which is only another 30 minutes away. And it’s just in the area of our southern Bubbles, which make a great respite if you attempted Skógafoss’ winding vertical stairs!
PLAN YOUR JOURNEY
Travelling to Iceland?
Check our overnight tours with a driver guide that includes a one night stay in a bubble.*Starting from ISK 74.900 per person
Where to see Puffins in Iceland? | About this Island's Beautiful Birds
Where to see Puffins in Iceland?
By Michael Chapman
Known as “prófastur” (preacher) in Icelandic, Atlantic Puffins are Iceland’s most iconic birds.
Where to see Puffins in Iceland?
By Michael Chapman
Known as “prófastur” (preacher) in Icelandic, Atlantic Puffins are Iceland’s most iconic birds.
When most people think of Icelandic wildlife, their minds trail off to whales and porpoises, arctic foxes and countless species of seabird, of which there is no more famous than the colourfully-billed Atlantic Puffin.
Atlantic Puffins are a migratory species, meaning they can only be seen during the summer months in Iceland. Visitors between May and early September have several locations around the country at their disposal to watch these stunning creatures swoop, soar and nest in their natural habitat.
But first things first, we really should have, at least, a basic understanding of the creatures we’ve travelled so far to see. Without further ado, let’s look at the Atlantic Puffin in closer detail, and see just why it’s become such a beloved figurehead in this country.
What is a Puffin?
Each part of the Auk family, there are three species of puffin found around the world, but it is only the Atlantic variety that finds itself in Iceland every year. This particular species can be recognised for its bright and colourful beak, as well as black and white feathers.
Atlantic Puffins are otherwise known as Common Puffins, and can also be found in such places as Greenland, Nova Scotia, Norway and the eastern UK, Sometimes, under-read travellers will confuse these birds for penguins—an animal that does not thrive, nor exist in Iceland—even when the Puffins take off in glorious flight.
Atlantic Puffins are monogamous animals, meaning they will only ever breed with one mate during their lifetimes. After spending the winter alone and far out at sea, it is something of a wonder that breeding pairs manage to find one another out of the millions of lookalikes nesting around them.
The end result of all this flying, nesting and lovemaking is, of course, baby puffins, which are known as Pufflings. Only a single egg is laid per breeding pair, and the young chick will be fully fledged in little under six weeks. Now capable of flight, but still inexperienced in using its wings, Puffins swim out into the ocean under the cover of night. They do not return to land for several years.
PLAN YOUR JOURNEY
Travelling to Iceland?
Check our overnight tours with a driver guide that includes a one night stay in a bubble.*Starting from ISK 74.900 per person
Top locations to see Puffins in Iceland
Considering the sheer breadth of the Icelandic landmass, some planning is necessary when hoping to spot Atlantic Puffins in the wild.
The best bet for most people is taking to the South Coast, a gorgeous and scenic stretch easily accessible from Reykjavik, with their mind set on reaching Dyrhólaey Promenade.
Dyrhólaey in South Iceland
Dyrhólaey is a former island, though receding sea levels have long kept it joined to mainland Iceland. Aside from the birdlife that nests amid its towering cliffsides, it is the epic rock arch and historic lighthouse that has drawn visitors to Dyrhólaey year after year.
Of course, wildlife enthusiasts come for the Puffins, of which there are thousands upon thousands to see. With their blue and orange bills and tuxedo-like feathering, these little birds are easy to spot as they waddle along the promenade’s rocky ledges, chirping back and forth to one another as though engaged in merry conversation.
The Westman Islands
Heimaey is both the largest of the Westman Islands, and the only one populated. Residents of this isolated, yet cheerful settlement share their summers with the largest Atlantic Puffin colony on earth, a breeding flock numbering over 2-million birds. Unfortunately, the size of the colony has been declining in recent years, leading the townsfolk to help stranded birds whenever they can.
It is possible to fly to Heimaey from Reykjavík domestic airport, though flights are frequently cancelled due to poor weather. A more secure and traditional way of reaching Heimaey is by boat; the Herjólfur ferry departs from Landeyjahöfn harbour twice daily during the summer and offers fantastic views on its three-hour journey.
Hornstrandir in the Westfjords
The Westfjords is among Iceland’s least visited regions. It is an area of sweeping hillsides and table-top mountains, of untarnished meadows replete with long swaying grass and wide open skies. Only those travellers looking to move beyond the traditional tourist trails will ever venture this far north, but those that do are rewarded with sights and experiences that have no rival.
Famed for their grandeur and wild aesthetic, it is Látrabjarg bird cliffs particularly that offer birdwatchers the best views and numbers. Falling like great vertical slabs into the ocean, Látrabjarg’s cliffs also mark the most western point of not only Iceland, but the European continent, adding further reason to pay a visit to this most secluded and untouched natural paradise.
See Puffins From Reykjavík
If you’re remaining within Reykjavík city boundaries throughout your trip, then I’m afraid it might be considered a little too hopeful to expect to see Puffins. While on rare occasions Puffins do fly into the city, they have normally taken a wrong turn and will quickly retreat back to wilder, wetter locations, far from the noise and bustling of any urban environment.
The best means of spotting Atlantic Puffins from Reykjavik is to partake in a whale watching tour on Faxafloi Bay, as these birds are known to frequent the same coastal waters as Iceland’s largest marine mammals. From aboard your vessel, you will look out from the deck to see tiny Puffins bobbing happily in the water, darting beneath the surface, every so often, on the hunt for fish.
There is a small spec of land amid the waters of Faxaflói Bay called Lundey, but colloquially known as ‘Puffin Island’. Boat trips can be purchased that will take you around the location, offering a more intimate experience on the waves alongside these delightful winged animals.
Other locations to see Puffins in Iceland
Though we’ve mentioned the best known places to see Puffins in Iceland, there are many other peninsulas, beach-heads and cliff sides where they can also be observed. Travellers in the North, for instance, should ensure they take a birdwatching tour from the delightful town of Akureyri. As the biggest town in the region, a visit here transcends just wildlife, but also allows for a dose of history and culture to compliment your trip.
If you’re willing to travel further out, why not head to the stunning geological wonderland known as the Tjornes Peninsula? There, you’ll find a large puffin colony, settled in their burrows amongst the ancient lava rock. Further north than that—so north, in fact, that we cross over into the Arctic Circle—Grimsey Island is another well-known spot where Atlantic Puffins gather during summer.
To the east is Papey Island, which according to the ancient sagas, was once home to Irish hermit monks who quickly left their homes after the arrival of the first Norsemen. Papey was inhabited until 1966, but still attracts visitors with its Puffins. On the other side of the country, just off the Westfjords, the island of Vigur makes for a fantastic day out for the family with its scenic coastal views and abundance of birdlife.
PLAN YOUR JOURNEY
Travelling to Iceland?
Check our overnight tours with a driver guide that includes a one night stay in a bubble.*Starting from ISK 74.900 per person
15 Top Tips for Travelling in Iceland
15 Top Tips for Travelling in Iceland
By Michael Chapman
Useful points to keep in mind when in the Land of Ice and Fire
15 Top Tips for Travelling in Iceland
By Michael Chapman
Useful points to keep in mind when in the Land of Ice and Fire
Visiting Iceland is among the top travel experiences available to globetrotters. As revered for its sublime and unique natural environment as it is for its rich and historical culture, discovering the Nordic island has become something of a pilgrimage for those seeking beautiful and dramatic locations.
Tips before you arrive to Iceland
Experienced travellers know all too well that an essential part of any overseas experience is looking forward to it beforehand. Researching your arrival destination can be a thrilling job in itself, building excitement for the trip ahead, plus laying out the groundwork for necessary logistics involved.
1. Pack and prepare for all types of weather
People aren’t lying when they tell you Iceland’s weather is capable of changing from serene and tranquil one minute to dark and stormy the next. Sure, the seasons differ when it comes to temperature, climate, levels of precipitation and daylight, but that’s still not a promise the weather will behave predictably.
Prioritise thick layers of clothing when packing your suitcase, skipping over highly absorbent materials like denim in favour of wool. You will also need a beanie hat, scarf and thick gloves to combat both the winter chill and summer winds, as well as your most fashionable pair of sunglasses. Who said you couldn’t travel in style, after all?
2. Research the best attractions in Iceland beforehand
There is a wealth of articles, information sites, youtube videos and online photo galleries dedicated to showcasing the visually striking natural attractions that dot this Iceland. If you make sure to spend time before your visit getting to know these sites by name and location, you will have a far easier time planning your trip around the country.
PLAN YOUR JOURNEY
Travelling to Iceland?
Check our overnight tours with a driver guide that includes a one night stay in a bubble.*Starting from ISK 74.900 per person
3. Learn some basic Icelandic words and phrases
Icelanders are rightfully proud of their English-language skills, with the vast majority of them speaking it with more fluency and poetry than I, as a native speaker, could ever think to muster. This lack of a communication barrier can be highly appealing to travellers daunted by the prospect of spending time in a place where they cannot freely communicate with others.
With that said, the Icelanders are even more proud of their language, one that is essentially unchanged from the Old Norse of the ancient sagas, the exact words and phrases and patterns of speech that settlers spoke here over 1000 years ago.
While it might not exactly be necessary to learn any Icelandic, one should do so anyway, if only to immerse themselves in a unique and rich mother-tongue. Here are a few to get you started;
- Góðan daginn – Good day!
- Já / Nei – Yes / No
- Takk – Thank you
- þú ert velkominn – You’re welcome
Travel Tips for when you're in Iceland
Now that you have safely arrived in Iceland, there are a handful of tips that will not only help acclimatise you to the new surroundings but can also save you money and oh-so-valuable time.
4. Buy booze at duty-free or state liquor stores.
Laws regulating the purchase of alcohol are somewhat stricter in Iceland than in many other countries across Europe. For one, it is not possible to buy any beverage in a supermarket with an alcohol strength of over 2.25%, an unwelcome discovery that has taken many a thirsty drinker by surprise.
If you’re looking to buy real beer, wine or spirits, you will have to turn to the state liquor store, Vinbudin. Open throughout the week save Sundays, these shops provide all one could need for a relaxed, albeit befuddled evening. As with everything in Iceland, the prices might be somewhat shocking to the system, so purchasing your drinks when arriving at the airport is a more fiscal choice.
5. Leave Reykjavik behind and explore nature
Though small, Reykjavik is a city worthy of exploration, bursting with culture, history, dining, accommodation and fun things to do. Despite this fact, it’s an inescapable reality that most visitors to Iceland come here for nature and wilderness. With such splendid and dramatic scenery on show, it’s hard to blame them.
Two of Iceland’s most popular sightseeing routes, the Golden Circle and the South Coast, are accessible from Iceland’s capital city. You can check out such sites as Thingvellir National Park, Geysir geothermal valley, and the unrivalled Gullfoss waterfall on the first of these trails.
Those venturing South will stumble across such treasures as Seljalandsfoss and Skogafoss waterfalls, Reynisfjara black sand beach and the iceberg-filled Jokulsarlon glacier lagoon.
6. Feel free to drink the tap-water
Iceland’s water is among, if not the purest water on earth. Such purity has its origins in this country’s mighty glaciers, the meltwater from which is filtered over the centuries as it travels by way of underground volcanic tunnels and rivers toward the ocean.
7. Take a dip in Iceland's swimming pools and hot pools
Speaking of water, bathing in geothermal hot pools is about as traditional an activity one can get while visiting Iceland. Many pools have formed naturally throughout Iceland, allowing for an immersive escape into relaxation whilst in the countryside.
If you can’t make it out to one of these natural pools, fear not! All of Iceland’s swimming pools utilise geothermal energy to keep them warm throughout the year. On top of that, many complexes come with steam rooms and hot tubs, bringing the potential for health, rejuvenation and relaxation to whole new depths.
8. Choose the right accommodation
There are many accommodation choices to choose from when staying in Iceland, from luxury hotels that suit Reykjavik’s metropolitan ambitions, to rustic guesthouses, airBnb’s and even farm stays! Regardless of where you wish to retreat to at the end of a long day, you can be guaranteed that Icelandic accommodation often exceeds the quality and comfort promised.
Of course, staying in one of our transparent bubbles is an accommodation choice that doubles as an unforgettable experience set out amidst the Icelandic countryside. Warm inside, and with total views of the forests and hillsides that make South Iceland so unique, you’ll feel truly at home in one of our bubbles and might even catch a whole night of the Northern Lights above.
9. Take your camera and tripod everywhere
Iceland is a photographer’s dream, offering colourful vistas and diverse landscapes beyond every bend of the road. While a mobile phone might suffice for some, true shutterbugs will want to make the most of the visual offerings available to them, requiring more professional equipment.
To catch a picture of Iceland’s wildlife, a telephoto lens is a must, as is a fast-shutter speed and quick-eye. Anyone seeking to capture the Northern Lights will need a tripod to keep the image still, plenty of patience and the right clothing to ward off the winter cold.
10. Make sure to budget accordingly
It’s common knowledge that Iceland is an expensive country to visit, made more pricey by the cost of other amenities like food, drinks and petrol while here. However, there are ways to help dampen one’s expenditure as long as one makes the most of the various deals and cost-cutting avenues on offer.
For instance, almost every bar and restaurant in Reykjavik offers Happy-Hour deals, which often equate to two drinks for the price of one. Similarly, supermarkets like Bonus and Kronan provide a wide variety of ingredients and ready-made meals that can be prepared at your accommodation for next to nothing.
11. Watch your gas when driving from site-to-site
There are vast distances between Iceland’s towns, villages and natural attractions, much of which passes nothing but wide stretches of wilderness and farmland.
For this reason, keeping an eye on your petrol (or gas, if you happen to be American) is a must. In days gone by, travellers would have been forced to memorise petrol stations as they appeared on the map, lest they wind up stranded on the roadside, far from civilisation.
Today, with the help of smartphones and satellite navigators, guests will have to remind themselves to check the fuel gauge before diverting to the nearest petrol station accordingly. Nearest can be any significant stretch, so always ensure the vehicle is full of fuel before setting out on long drives.
12. Appreciate Iceland's wildlife
Iceland’s diverse wildlife is a crucial aspect of what makes its environment so beloved.
Whale Watching is among the top visitor’s activities, offering guests the chance to set out on the high seas searching for majestic marine mammals. With trips available in both winter and summer, the most common sightings in Icelandic waters include Minke and Humpback whales and Harbour Porpoises.
Birdwatchers are particularly keen on Iceland’s many cliffsides, where species such as guillemots, skuas, gulls and, of course, Atlantic Puffins choose to nest during the summer. Dyrhólaey promenade on the South Coast, and Latrabjarg in the Westfjords are two sites considered among Iceland’s best places to observe bird life.
13. Be on the lookout for elves, or Iceland's 'Hidden Folk'
While it might seem strange to foreigners, there is a belief among some Icelanders they share the land with a race of magical elves known as the Huldufolk. Many stories from Icelandic folklore tell of these interdimensional beings luring stray travellers from the road, taking them deep into the wilderness where they, no doubt, meet an untimely end.
Alright, so a sincere belief in Iceland’s elves is waning, but that doesn’t mean cautious superstition still isn’t rife here. Only a few years ago, for instance, a proposed tarmac road had to be moved in the town of Kopavogur so as not to disturb a beloved and ancient ‘elf rock’.
If you want to learn more about these fascinating, albeit fictional beings, make sure to pay a visit to the Elf School in Reykjavik, as famously showcased in Richard Ayoade’s TV show, Travel Man.
While it’s always a little sad when a fantastic holiday comes to an end, there is no reason to wallow. After all, the experiences you have in Iceland are sure to remain with you for years to come and will no doubt end up reminding you as to plan a repeat visit in the future.
So, with that said, bear in mind these valuable tips to help beat the post-vacation blues after your time in Iceland is over.
14. Reminiscence over your Iceland souvenirs
Walking around the capital city, you’ll no doubt find yourself a fun and memorable item that will long draw you back to your time in Iceland.
Fashionistas might look to pick up a traditional Icelandic sweater, known as a Lopapeysa. Woven of sheep’s wool, these thick and rustic jumpers are the best way of both fighting the cold, and keeping a little bit of Iceland with you wherever you go.
Travellers looking for tasty delights would do well to make a stop at Reykjavik’s OmNom Chocolates, where their selection of cacao bars range from sea salted almonds to black barley. If you’re looking for a more authentic food product to bring back, try grabbing a bag of dried white-fish or a bottle of Icelandic schnapps, Brennivin.
15. Plan to visit Iceland in a different season
In many ways, the seasons shape Iceland into entirely different countries. During the short summer, the land is green and abundant with purple lupin flowers. Sheep and horses roam the countryside, hikers stop at roadside cafes to enjoy a beer or coffee, and sightseers take their time moving from one attractive site to the other.
In winter, Iceland takes on a much harsher, no less beautiful face. Farmlands, volcanic deserts and black beaches are blanketed with a thick layer of white snow. The sun rises above the horizon line for only a couple of hours, leaving the vast majority of the day in darkness. For those that dress themselves warmly, this environment is tantamount to a winter wonderland, and of course provides the chance to spot the Northern Lights above.
PLAN YOUR JOURNEY
Travelling to Iceland?
Check our overnight tours with a driver guide that includes a one night stay in a bubble.*Starting from ISK 74.900 per person
Seljalandsfoss and the magic cavern: Adventures on Iceland's South Coast
Seljalandsfoss and the magic cavern: Adventures on Iceland's South Coast
By Taylor van Biljon
One of the first magical stops on a South Coast adventure, Seljalandsfoss is a wonder that you can see from BOTH sides.
Seljalandsfoss and the magic cavern: Adventures on Iceland's South Coast
By Taylor van Biljon
One of the first magical stops on a South Coast adventure, Seljalandsfoss is a wonder that you can see from BOTH sides.
Seljalandsfoss, lies just 1 hour and 40 minutes southeast of Reykjavik on Route 1, otherwise known as the “Ring Road”. A popular first stop on a South Coast drive, Seljalandsfoss is known near and far, as a waterfall that you can walk behind.
How to get to Seljalandsfoss
These are some of the easiest directions we’ve got! Only 120km. away, mighty Seljalandsfoss is directly accessible from Route 1 traveling south from Reykjavik, and is a great day trip option. You can reach the falls in just 1 hour and 40-45 minutes from the capital, and you’ll definitely want to make a stop here.
You’ll know you’re close when you see the sign, and it’ll become visible on your right as you approach.
When you arrive at the parking area, you will note that there is a small shop and access to restrooms, but know that these things may not stay open very late at night.
Unlike many dramatic natural treasures of Iceland, this one requires virtually no hiking or meandering into an interior road. Seljalandsfoss and it’s wider cousin Skógafoss are both, in fact, just one turn off of the main road.
PLAN YOUR JOURNEY
Travelling to Iceland?
Check our overnight tours with a driver guide that includes a one night stay in a bubble.*Starting from ISK 74.900 per person
The magical path behind the falls
Seljalandsfoss is known for the path that takes you directly behind it. Often photographed from within the cavern behind its thundering curtain, this is a truly magical experience.
The pathway that leads up to the waterfall will lead you behind the falls themselves, and may get you fairly wet depending on the wind and the season. You will be somewhat protected in the shallow cave behind it, but be prepared!
The mist that these great falls create is deceptively heavy, and can create muddy or slippery conditions on the path, or permeate any non waterproof clothes. (Which is likely not how you will want to begin your South Coast tour.)
Like all nature exploration in Iceland, it is good to come armed with the right gear- regardless of how tame the way may appear.
About Seljalandsfoss:
Because of its visible proximity, it would appear that Seljalandsfoss is fed by the meltwater of slumbering Eyjafjallajökull, the glacier nearby. Glaciers in Iceland are the source of many rivers and falls, and while some of the meltwater of Eyjafjallajökull may very well find its way down into the Seljalandsá river, it is not the primary source of the waterfall.
Fed by a spring in the Seljalandsheiði and Hamragarðaheiði heath, the Seljalandsá comes from deep within the shelf of earth that the falls crash down from. We can sometimes guess at the source, by how the water actually looks. A directly glacial source would produce a more opaque type of water- carrying the fine ash, dirt and particulate matter that is so often indicative of glacial runoff.
This is a historically volcanic area- and so of course old ash makes its way into most things, but the waters of Seljalandsfoss are quite clear and free of visible debris.
During the seasonal snow melt, the river can swell and carry more soil and surrounding runoff matter, but typically this source is free of particulate. If you manage to fit in a Golden Circle tour, try comparing the colorful glacial waters of Gullfoss to the cool, clear waters of Seljalandsfoss- and see for yourself! Both are incredibly pure in their own way, but they wear their different sources on their sleeves.
Seljalandsfoss is one of multiple waterfalls in this area. As one of the larger falls, Seljalandsfoss is around 60m high, and it empties into a fairly small pool. Referenced by Ferðafélag Íslands in their 1977 Árbók as an example of a brimrofsfoss or even a brimklifsfoss style fall, these terms describe a waterfall variety that is forced over the top of a cliff edge, as opposed to cataract style falls like Gullfoss.
It is so easy to be visually spellbound by the incredible majesty of Seljalandsfoss, that is can be easy to forget that it is actually part of an entire series of falls that, further upstream, travel through Tröllagil (Troll Gorge) to Tröllagilsmýri (Troll Gorge Marsh) before making the grand finish over the cliff edge. For many of us, the final grand exit of Seljalandsfoss is the only piece of the journey that we will ever witness.
It is however possible to hike the heath above Seljalandsfoss to enjoy the vast view from the top of the land shelf, but it is an experienced hike that is recommended to attempt with a trained guide.
One can look all the way down to the wild sea from atop giant Eyjafjöll, and explore the lush blooming hollows that follow the river all the way down to the falls. Few ever venture this far in- and it is a secret paradise to be sure.
Volume, wind and rainfall change the flow of the water frequently, so you never know what face of Seljalandsfoss you’ll get on any particular visit.
In fact, though the Seljalandsfoss that many of us know today is widely unchanged- large natural events have made their marks on it over time. In January 1976 large precipitation measured at nearby Skógar (101mm.) and a related landslide on Steinholtsjökull glacial tongue released flash flood waters that impacted the visible brink of Seljalandsfoss; and changed the silhouette that locals were so used to, forever.
Lessening its flow spread, the curtain of water that falls down from Seljalandsfoss is now considerably smaller than it was prior to the 1976 flood. As a person who was only born after that flood, it is hard to imagine Seljalandsfoss looking any other way.
Though we find it gorgeous still, it is a good reminder that one can never seek the beauty of nature too often, because you cannot know when it will remake itself.
All of these things are subject to the will of these amazing forces, and we can never know what events will change them. Despite being an island centered around lava and ice, two of the most changeable natural entities that exist- this is a truth that can be hard to absorb.
Seljalandsfoss flows year round, but seasonal factors can create difficulty with accessing it up close. Excessive rainfall can create muddy conditions on the path behind it, and low temperatures in winter can form some outrageous ice.
The path is susceptible to closure if it becomes dangerous, but know that approaching the larger waterfalls in winter can come with some far-reaching frozen paths, due to the range of the mist. It’s never a bad idea to carry hiking poles or crampons if you intend to get close and are concerned about your ice-walking abilities, in the best circumstances. Fortunately, this waterfall is so big that one doesn’t need to get very close to truly appreciate it’s towering grandeur.
A treasure in all seasons- Seljalandsfoss is a wonder under the northern lights, and, the midnight sun. Because of the path behind the water, it is often possible to capture striking rainbow or aurora shots from inside the cavern- a thing you may already have seen on postcards, films, or even your computer screensaver.
In fact, Seljalandsfoss is quite famous for a waterfall! You can see Seljalandsfoss on television in The Amazing Race and Star Trek: Discovery. It also appears in the Justin Bieber music video for the song “I’ll Show You”, and the films CKY2K, and, The Juniper Tree. Not bad for an actor that never talks!
Photographing the falls:
Catching a shot of the sun hitting the water from inside the cavern is surely a bucket list Iceland shot.
If you’re here in the winter, don’t worry! Seljalandsfoss is illuminated through the dark winter nights, and it is a spectacular thing to see- particularly if you can catch an aurora dancing overtop. The soft illumination of the water helps a great deal with an image like this, and really brings out the foreground for an indescribable view.
Like many things in Iceland, (looking at you, auroras-), a wide angle lens can be a great help in situations like these. You will find that despite its fairly tall and thin appearance, once inside the cavern- Seljalandsfoss becomes quite a wide shot.
Cameras take a beating during waterfall shots- and the hardiest rig can get waterlogged if you’re not careful. Be prepared to constantly clear the lens of water droplets otherwise, which can be a big challenge once you are wet yourself.
And don’t forget golden hour! The light in Iceland changes pretty drastically throughout the year, so it is good to be certain. If you are visiting in June, your available light will be very different from a person visiting in March. You can check this, and other similar factors at websites like time & date.
This is a great way to see the light map for the year, the sunrises and sunsets, and even things like moon phase- which is good to know if you plan on shooting northern lights.
You can also use tools like this golden hour calculator– but don’t forget to experiment yourself. Iceland is a photographic treasure box of different types of light, and even with the broodiest cloud cover, you will find that there’s something beautiful to capture. So don’t forget to look for yourself, because that is when some of the most spectacular subjects are to be found.
The nearby secret of Gljúfrabúi waterfall
And since you’ve made it all the way down here, we’ll throw in a small tip.
One of our most beautiful waterfalls, Seljalandsfoss is not very secret. (It would be hard to keep that secret at least, seeing as how it is very visible from the main road and massive.)
However, just a bit further to the west- there is a lesser known sibling to this great fall, called Gljúfrabúi, or “Canyon Dweller”. Said to have housed hermits, and possibly the hidden folk themselves- this small waterfall is a rival to its neighbor indeed.
There is a small marked trail between Seljalandsfoss and Gljúfrabúi, and it only takes about 10 minutes to walk. Depending on the water volume that day, you may pass by some smaller falls or rivulets coming down off of the shelf, but you’re looking for something more surprising than that. After nearly 750m., you’ll come to a nondescript slice in the rock shelf. Many pass by this treasure- but it is truly a remarkable thing.
Boasting a smaller 40m. drop, Gljúfrabúi is hidden away by its own palagonite canyon walls, but you can just see it through the eye of the chasm at the entrance. You will see the crystalline stream exiting the canyon, and you can follow it right in. It is possible to wade directly in the stony stream, but if the water volume is low, you can creep along the sides without getting very wet.
Walking down into Gljúfrabúi is like venturing into a layered paper cutting, as the many walls of the tiny canyon jut out and surround you. They are like a myriad of carved doorways in a row, and in the summer they are draped with rich green moss that grows bright off of the delicate mist and dew of the falls.
When you get all the way to the end, you’ll find yourself in an atrium of sorts, where the falls come down. There is a massive boulder there that you can carefully climb for an amazing look up into the light, and of course, for a great photo.
There are many small hiking opportunities around Gljúfrabúi, including ways up onto the heath above for an incredible view. These paths are old and have been enjoyed by locals for generations, but they are challenging and steep, and are best left to experienced hikers.
The view from the heath is spectacular, but it comes with a damp ascent and can be accessed in easier ways with a professional guide. (Besides, they might be able to point out of some of the huldufólk while you’re up there with them! Nothing beats a safe view with a good story.)
PLAN YOUR JOURNEY
Travelling to Iceland?
Check our overnight tours with a driver guide that includes a one night stay in a bubble.*Starting from ISK 74.900 per person
Hveragerdi, Iceland: Hottest little town in the South
Hveragerdi, Iceland: Hottest little town in the South
By Taylor van Biljon
Nestled in the shadow of Mount Hengill is the bubbling and steaming little town of Hveragerdi.
Hveragerdi, Iceland: Hottest little town in the South
By Taylor van Biljon
Nestled in the shadow of Mount Hengill is the bubbling and steaming little town of Hveragerdi.
Hveragerdi, Iceland (also known as Hveragerði), lies just over 40 minutes east of Reykjavik over the Bláfjöll mountain range. A popular geothermal region, Hveragerdi is known for its smoky hiking paths and greenhouses, and is an important stop on any south coast adventure.
Where is Hveragerdi?
Hveragerdi is a short 46.5 km. away from Central Reykjavik, and is accessible via Route 1. Just over the picturesque Bláfjöll mountain range, Hveragerdi is one of the first towns in the Southern Region, which you enter nearly halfway through the drive between Reykjavik and Hveragerdi.
Sitting at an important crossroads, Hveragerdi is a popular destination for nature and geothermal enthusiasts, and it is right on the roundabout that connects travelers to the capital, the south coast, and Þorlákshöfn (Thorlákshöfn)– the winter ferry terminal for Vestmannaeyjar (the Westman Islands).
PLAN YOUR JOURNEY
Travelling to Iceland?
Check our overnight tours with a driver guide that includes a one night stay in a bubble.*Starting from ISK 74.900 per person
Hveragarðurinn (Hveragerdi Geothermal Park)
Situated in an active geothermal region, Hveragerdi is literally bubbling with visible activity- as close as the center of the town. In Hveragarðurinn, you can learn about the town’s geothermal history, visit a small banana greenhouse, and even boil an egg in a hot pool. Visitors can sample local bread baked right in the ground, and soak their feet in a bubbly spring.
There is a great deal of history attached to these vents of hot water- as far back as the 1900’s, when a local resident fell into one of the springs, and died from scalding. Due to the individual falling in the night, this tragedy caused the town to install street lights, and led to the spring being named “Manndrápshver”, or, “Man killing hot spring”. It serves as a valuable reminder of the strength of these innocent looking pools, and the swiftness with which they can change.
There are also some small geysers in this park- Dynkur and Eilífur. Dynkur is more of a steam vent now, but at one time in its life it used to emit a fine spray of water. Eilífur is a newer geyser to the area, and currently emits water on a 20-25 minute cycle. Though its name means “eternal”, it is a young geyser- and like all geothermal features, it is unknown how long it will function as such.
Over time, some of these springs have weakened from their former intensity, as can happen in an active volcanic area. The Earth here is very much alive, and changes can occur at any time. Some of the temperature and spring intensity changes in the park are due to the 2008 seismic event in Hveragerdi, and may one day change again as things unfold. In this way, a visit to Hveragerdi is always special- as you never know how it will look the next time you stop by.
Hike to Reykjadalur
Continuing on the geothermal theme of the town- another important feature of the Hveragerdi area is the mountain hike to Reykjadalur, or, “Smoky Valley”. Reykjadalur is a fairly accessible hike with incredible scenic views and the end reward of bathing in a geothermal river.
This hike begins at a parking lot next to a coffee house. This is a great stop to make to have a quick snack before beginning your ascent and use the restroom. Reykjadalur is a wild area, and though there is a wooden partition installed for changing behind, there are no facilities or fees at the river.
This hike is about 3 km. one way, and is an upward ascent into the Hengill area. The hike itself is about an hour long, but it is advisable to take breaks along the way- especially for photos. The path is at times a bit precarious and narrow, so our recommendation is to stay on the marked trail. Depending on the time of year that you visit, mud or ice can create difficult conditions here, so checking the weather and the hours of light beforehand can save you some headache. Don’t forget your torch if you will be hiking in the evening!
Reykjadalur is a favorite of locals, and is not entirely secret- but due to its lofty locale, it is not as developed as many of the easier to access hot springs. Because of this, you will notice that there are not many signs along the way, and there are no attendant staff at the river itself. Because of its proximity to Hveragerdi, you are likely to maintain cellular service here however, and you will encounter some signs at some of the more dangerous mud pools further in. These pools are actively boiling, so please do take caution as you move through the area.
There is now a wooden path at the beginning of the bathing area, but take note that this is not the only area for bathing. You can move past this deck area and go further down the river for a more private spot. Take note that the water is warmer the further into the valley that you venture, so try to test it before getting in. (Also test the ground before you remove your shoes- as the banks of the river can be surprisingly hot!)
The valley itself is full of hiking paths and gorges, but these can be hard to access in the winter. This area is further up in elevation, so the weather can change quickly and the dark falls very early.
If you are looking for a true natural hot spring experience however, this is one of the best.
What else is there to do?
There are lots of restaurants, bakeries, activities and gorgeous natural attractions in Hveragerdi. For those who would like to stick to the city, there is golfing at Gufudalsvöllur, an art exhibition at Listasafn Árnesinga, the local heated pool Sundlaugin Laugaskarði, the Stone and Mineral Museum, and horseback riding for riders of all ages in the surrounding countryside.
We recommend the brewery tour and pizza tasting over at Ölverk Pizza & Brewery, and the earthquake simulation box in the Sunnumörk shopping mall! You can buy a hand knitted lopapeysa, learn about the 2008 earthquake, see how it felt in the simulator- and even see a seismic crack illuminated through the floor.
The earthquake itself was a 6.3 magnitude quake, and the videos and testimonies from the event are powerful to see. This area is near a grocery store and bakery as well- so it’s a great opportunity to stock up on snacks, whether your hikes are taking you all the way up to Reykjadalur, or just through the city center and Hveragarðurinn.
No matter what your plans are- Hveragerdi is the hottest little town on our list, and we never pass up a chance to boil an egg and soak in the glorious spring.
PLAN YOUR JOURNEY
Travelling to Iceland?
Check our overnight tours with a driver guide that includes a one night stay in a bubble.*Starting from ISK 74.900 per person
Reykjavik | All About Iceland's Beautiful Capital City
All About Reykjavik
By Michael Chapman
A little city with a big reputation!
All About Reykjavik
By Michael Chapman
A little city with a big reputation!
Reykjavík is our planet’s northernmost sovereign capital; a coastal city, no-bigger than a town, that boasts more culture, history and excitement than one might expect of Iceland’s only major city.
Reykjavík is where the vast majority of visitors will arrive and stay during their time in Iceland, and is close by to some of its greatest attractions, including the Golden Circle Iceland tour.
Where is Reykjavík?
Reykjavík is found on the southwest coast of Iceland, a sub-arctic island east of Greenland. The country is located roughly midway between North America and Europe; the city itself marks the halfway point between New York and Moscow.
Due to this geographical location, the city makes for a great weekend break for travellers arriving from both sides of the Atlantic. So too does it serve as the optimum stopover for business people, a vibrant Nordic city in which to hold conferences and presentations.
Looking north from Reykjavík, guests will look out over the glittering blue waters of Faxaflói Bay, named after one of the island’s earliest settlers. On clear days, it is possible to make out the outline of Snæfellsjökull stratovolcano, as well as buildings in the small town of Akranes.
Reykjavík has its own domestic airport, though this is only used for local and private flights. Iceland’s only international airport is Keflavik, which is approximately forty minutes drive from the capital.
The History of Reykjavík
As the oldest, largest and most industrious city in Iceland, Reykjavík is considered the cultural heart of this country. Over the last thousand years, this city and this country has remained isolated from the outside world, passed between greater powers as if as an afterthought.
It is only since the outset of the Second World War that Icelanders began to consider themselves a people in their own right, pursuing a lasting independence from their Norwegian or Danish overseers. For now, however, let us go back to the beginning; to the very first time people set foot on a land that would come to be beloved by so many.
The settlement of Reykjavík
In Icelandic, Reykjavík translates to ‘Smoky Bay’. According to the Book of Settlement, this island’s first settler, Ingolfr Arnason, coined the name after spotting plumes of steam from his ship. While then these were surely a mystery to the crew, we know today they were looking upon the geothermal fields that dot West Iceland.
As was tradition among Norse seafarers at the time, Ingolfr let loose two large logs from his ship, then waited to see where they washed up on the shore. It would be here the earliest settlers made home; rudimentary buildings constructed of stone and timber, the remnants of which can still be seen at the Settlement Museum downtown.
Reykjavík in the Second World War
Reykjavík served as the arrival point of Operation Fork, the codename used for the British invasion of Iceland that took place on 10 May 1940. Iceland was then neutral during the war, so the Allies decided it was important to deny Nazi Germany a stranglehold over the North Atlantic.
The invasion, if indeed it can be called that, occurred without a single shot being fired. In fact, many Icelanders helped British soldiers with the unloading of their ships. Among the first priorities of the new arrivals was to arrest the German consulate, who they quickly found in his respective embassy burning documents.
The British would remain stationed in Iceland for the next year, at which time American forces took over. Throughout this period, Reykjavík experienced enormous growth, bolstered by the construction efforts of foreign soldiers. The presence of said troops also brought with it problems, namely rivalry between them and the local men for the attention of girls.
Reykjavík in 21st Century
In more recent times, Reykjavík remains central to Icelandic politics, and is home to both the Prime Minister’s house and the parliament building of the government, known as the Althingi. Reykjavík has also maintained an important place in world politics and culture.
The 1986 Reykjavík Summit saw US and Soviet Union leaders meet at the iconic Höfði House to discuss bringing an end to the Cold War. Though their meeting was ultimately unsuccessful, many historians believe discussions held at Höfði House were instrumental in bringing about peace between the two superpowers.
The capital also sees meet-ups of the Nordic Council and Arctic Council group, as well as visits by foreign dignitaries. It is for reasons such as these that Reykjavík is still rightfully seen as the governmental and economic centre of the country.
How many people live in Reykjavík today?
As of 2021, around 131,000 people live in the municipality of Reykjavík, equating to about a third of the total population. Around 233,000 people live in the greater Capital Region, by far making it the most populous region in the country.
The second largest settlement in Iceland, Akureyri, is roughly 5 hours drive north from Reykjavík. Its 19,000 strong population shows a significant difference in how busy each region is, though has lent the town the unofficial nickname, ‘Capital of the North’.
What are people from Reykjavík like?
Though it is impossible to speak for every resident of the city, Reykjavíkings tend to share similar values, placing high emphasis on personal freedom, the pursuit of equal rights and the sanctity of freedom of speech. When it comes to the heart and imagination, the city has a truly eclectic performance scene, made up of musicians, comedians, writers, painters and cartoonists, all bound by a love of the arts.
Reykjavík is a city of two halves; the summer sees the population come alive, frenzied by the sudden appearance of the Midnight Sun. During this period, they will spend nearly 24 hours lavishing in the city’s beer gardens, playing frisbee-golf in the park, languishing in a hot pool or setting out into the wilds for a dash of hiking or horseback riding. No surprises then that it is at this time urban Icelanders live up to their reputation as rugged outdoorsy folk.
It is during the winter that Icelanders’ more cerebral qualities come into play. It is then they will resume working on their take on the great Icelandic novel—1/10 people here will publish a book in their lifetimes—or squirrel themselves into a basement cafe, chugging coffee after refillable coffee over a game of chess, or perhaps an intimate performance by a local music act or speaker.
Reykjavík is considered a very safe city. Icelanders are, by and large, very welcoming to travellers of any persuasion. With that said, the local people have had their fair share of run-ins with disrespectful and obnoxious tourists over the years, many of whom, it must be said, have had one too many whilst out discovering Reykjavík’s taprooms. Sucdsh incidences can be grating, especially after repeat offences.
If you’re hoping to avoid a good stripping-down by the locals, might we remind all visitors that we hope Reykjavík remains a safe and peaceful location for many decades to come.
PLAN YOUR JOURNEY
Travelling to Iceland?
Check our overnight tours with a driver guide that includes a one night stay in a bubble.*Starting from ISK 74.900 per person
What do people from Reykjavík call themselves?
Residents of the city are considered Reykjavíkings in Icelandic, though you’ll rarely hear the term thrown around town if you’re just here for a visit. At least colloquially, the hipster crowds refer to themselves as Downtown Rats, praising—or bashing, depending on who you decide to ask—classic Icelandic films like 101 RYK and Sodoma Reykjavík as cultural influences.
Somewhat amusingly, somewhat nastily, Icelanders from the countryside can sometimes take a dim view of their urban compatriots, demonstrating that a divide in mindset is as real here as it is anywhere else.
For that reason, you might hear, at some point during your travels, the people in the city described as “lattelepjandi lopatrefillinn”, or latte sipping wool scarf wearers. If you fit the bill—as I’m afraid, the author does—it’s best not to take it too personally. When was the last time you milked a cow, after all?
What to see and do in Reykjavík?
There is no-end of things to see and do in Reykjavík, and thankfully, the vast majority of its attractions are within easy walking distance from one another. Visitors loyal to the traditional methods of exploring a city will want to check out Reykjavík’s most iconic landmarks first and foremost.
Hallgrimskirkja Lutheran Church
Hands down, the best place to begin your walking tour of the city is Hallgrimskirkja Lutheran Church. Hallgrimskirkja is to Reykjavík what the Big Ben is to London, what the Colosseum is to Rome or the Empire State Building to New York. With its towering grey steeple, built up like a naturally-formed pyramid, this building has been synonymous with Reykjavík since first opening its doors in 1986.
Designed by the respected state architect, Gudjon Samuelsson, Hallgrimskirkja’s steeple was inspired by the hexagonal basalt columns that surround Svartifoss waterfall in southeast Iceland. Gudjon is also responsible for the designs of many other buildings in the capital, no less the National Theatre of Iceland, the University of Iceland and, of course, a favourite spot among locals, Sundhöllin swimming pool.
Some have remarked the church outline resembles the hammer, Mjölnir, belonging to the Norse God of Thunder, Thor. Of course, this hypothesis is quickly debunked in light of the fact the Christian Church is unlikely to endorse icons associated with Iceland’s prior Pagan beliefs. Hallgrimskirkja is among the tallest points in downtown Reykjavík, making for great views over the colourful tin rooftops so characteristic of Iceland’s capital.
Harpa Concert Hall and Conference Centre
Another building equally worthy of your admiration is Harpa Concert Hall and Conference Centre, a glassy, abstract construction composed of unique window panes, some that look out over the city, others over neighbouring Faxafloi. Home to staple acts like the Icelandic Symphony Orchestra and Icelandic Opera, Harpa also regularly attracts performers from overseas.
Though Harpa is today considered an essential landmark to visit while in the city, there was a time when the structure, then unfinished, served as an uncomfortable reminder as to government overspending. Thankfully, Harpa’s popularity is proof Iceland has finally moved on from the economic crisis’ that plagued it only ten or so years ago.
The Sun Voyager Sculpture
Walking down along the water-front promenade that sits besides Harpa, it is only a matter of time until guests will stumble upon the iconic sculpture, The Sun Voyager.
Shaped like the skeleton of an ancient ship, the piece was designed by the late Jón Gunnar Árnason. Most visitors believe the boat to resemble a Viking vessel, though the artist’s intention was merely to create a ‘dream boat’, a testament to the sun, forever sailing towards the horizon.
Learn about Iceland’s history at Reykjavík’s museums
Previously, we mentioned the incredible view that comes from standing atop Hallgrimskirkja. Another excellent viewpoint is promised at the 360-degree observation deck found atop the unmissable, domed ceiling of Perlan Museum, set out amidst the pine-trees of Reykjavík’s Öskjuhlíð hill.
Once used for holding the city’s water, the four enormous cylindrical tanks that frame the museum adds to the unusual aesthetic of this place. These are not likely to hold your attention, however, given you will have full scope over the city skyline, Faxafloi bay and the ever-present tabletop mountain, Esja.
Inside Perlan, you’ll find the ‘Wonders of Iceland’ exhibition; a multimedia journey into the natural forces that have sculpted this magnificent island. Not only will you witness a fully recreated version of the Latrabjarg bird cliffs, but will also step inside an artificial ice tunnel, taking your imagination deep beneath the glaciers.
The National Museum of Iceland provides a more traditional look back at this island’s history, focusing on the development of its culture and the many talented people who have helped to sculpt its national identity over the years. It is the oldest museum in the country, having been founded in 1863, and can be found between the University of Iceland and Lake Tjornin.
Another great stop for anyone looking to learn more about Iceland’s heritage should pay a visit to Safnahúsið (the Culture House), where many of this island’s most revered artifacts are on display.
Sample delicious Icelandic cuisine
There are many sophisticated, affordable and critically-acclaimed restaurants in which to dine-out in Reykjavík, a city that has only recently stepped-up its game regarding cuisine.
Famished guests looking to sample the dishes that have traditionally been eaten in this country should pay a visit to the aptly-named Icelandic Bar (Íslenski barinn) downtown. Among its cosy pub-like confines, you can sample fermented shark, rye bread and the tart Icelandic liqueur, Brennivin.
Several other charming restaurants can be found down by Old Harbour, a picturesque and historic location in the city where diners can eat their food whilst surrounded by bobbing yachts and swooping seabirds. Venture a little further and you’ll reach the neighbourhood, Grandi; a sure favourite among locals with its row of stylish eateries and new indoor food market.
Take part in live events in Reykjavík
The events calendar in Reykjavík is jam-packed each year, and as eclectic as you would expect from a city so invested in the arts. On any given week night, you’ll find bars and cafes playing host to a rotation of local musicians, and two comedy clubs, The Secret Cellar and Gaukurinn, offer laughs for next to no cost. Come the weekend, the nightlife takes on a far more debaucherous tone, with locals and guests alike making the most of the happy hour deals on offer. Without exception, Friday and Saturday nights provide the best outlet for seeking out the best in authentic live performances.
Of course, there are some events that simply cannot be overlooked, namely the enormous music festivals, Iceland Airwaves and Secret Solstice. While the former sees a mix of live and international acts perform within small venues in the city, Secret Solstice attracts the crowds with its domineering outdoor stages and the foreign superstars who perform atop them.
PLAN YOUR JOURNEY
Travelling to Iceland?
Check our overnight tours with a driver guide that includes a one night stay in a bubble.*Starting from ISK 74.900 per person
Gullfoss Waterfall: Beloved treasure of the Golden Circle
Gullfoss Waterfall: Beloved treasure of the Golden Circle
By Taylor van Biljon
Dramatically terraced down the glacial Hvítá river, are some of Iceland’s most famous golden falls.
Gullfoss Waterfall: Beloved treasure of the Golden Circle
By Taylor van Biljon
Dramatically terraced down the glacial Hvítá river, are some of Iceland’s most famous golden falls.
Gullfoss Waterfall is one of Iceland’s most visited natural attractions, and it is not hard to see why. Easily accessible on the Golden Circle route, Gullfoss is a breathtaking three-tiered cataract style waterfall within two hours drive of Reykjavik.
The Golden Falls of the Golden Circle
Promptly named for its location, there are a few different stories about how Gullfoss got its lofty name. The most popular is the simple visual of its water shining golden in the gentle sunlight; a scene that produces so many misty rainbows. The more complex, comes to us from Sveinn Pálsson’s travel journal, about a farmer living at Gýgjarhóll.
It is written that the farmer was rich with gold, but he lived with the concern of knowing that he couldn’t spend it all- and he was pained with the idea that someone else might inherit it after he had long passed. (What a problem.)
Out of fear of this imaginary scenario- he packed the gold away in a coffer, and crazed by his own consumptive greed- threw the coffer deep into the swirling depths of Gullfoss.
Whether or not there is truly gold in the bottom of Gullfoss’ rushing depths, it is hard to deny that its shining waters catch the sun like a molten stream of gold straight from Brokkr’s celestial forge. (Though, the amount of rainbows rising out of it might back up that lost treasure theory!)
PLAN YOUR JOURNEY
Travelling to Iceland?
Check our overnight tours with a driver guide that includes a one night stay in a bubble.*Starting from ISK 74.900 per person
How to get to Gullfoss
Gullfoss is accessible throughout the year, and is not an attraction that closes or requires an entry fee. There is accessible parking, and access to cafe and shop facilities. Unlike the waterfall however, these facilities operate on a set schedule, and are not open 24/7. It’s a good idea to check ahead before your trip if you would like to visit them.
Some Icelandic waterfalls are viewable from multiple viewpoints- but Gullfoss is uniquely viewed from above after a short walk from the parking lot, with multiple small hiking paths in a protected nature reserve.
Approximately 116 km. away, it takes about 1 hour and 35 minutes to arrive at Gullfoss from Reykjavik. (This is of course if you don’t stop at Lake Thingvallavatn, Laugarvatn Fontana Spa, Efstidalur Dairy Farm, Brúarfoss, or, Strokkur, on the way- which we highly suggest you do!
Because of the close proximity of all of these Golden Circle attractions, it is advisable to give yourself a few hours in order to experience and immerse in all that the drive has to offer.)
That being said, the most direct route to Gullfoss from Reykjavik is to exit town via the Route 01 (Vesturlandsvegur/Þjóðvegur 1), heading North towards Mosfellsbær.
After quite a few roundabouts, you’ll take a right onto Route 036, also known as Þingvallavegur, named for the National Park which you will now be headed towards. This is the northern entrance to the Golden Circle route.
This route will take you directly past all of the aforementioned stops and attractions, and will eventually direct you to follow onto Route 365, so that you can continue to Route 037, or, Laugarvatnsvegur.
This road becomes 035, which will take you straight past Strokkur and into the Gullfoss parking lot, to the right. This is a level drive that is very well marked with clear signage.
Thundering Gullfoss is pretty hard to miss, but just in case- you’ll know you went too far if you suddenly find yourself faced with a fairly rustic F road! The F35 or Kjalvegur, is a scenic route that will take you right next to (and across!) the glacial source of Gullfoss’ pristine flow- but it is a more challenging path that is only permitted for 4×4 vehicles. (If you plan to explore this route, check with Safetravel for area conditions, updated warnings, and driving instructions for river crossings and highland terrain.)
Depending on your itinerary and the direction from which you began the Golden Circle route– you are most likely to visit Gullfoss in the middle of your Golden Circle trip. Check out this winter and summer driving guide for tips to best organize your experience.
How was Gullfoss formed?
The land in Iceland is constantly changing, pulling apart, forming new layers, and renewing its appearance through various means. It is an awesome reminder of the transformative power of nature, and the incredible force with which our planet was made.
Gullfoss is classed as a tiered cataract, or a variety of waterfall that features a great volume of water rushing over a precipice. A bit further up in north Iceland, Dettifoss in Vatnajökull National Park is another example of a cataract.
Fed from the Hvítá river that is born from the meltwater of the massive glacier Langjökull- geologists believe that Gullfoss was initially created by glacial outbursts. These flash floods would have pushed through the basalt lava terrain, creating the canyon gorge that we enjoy today. These glacial outbursts are called jökulhlaup, which literally means “glacial run”.
Though this is a more common occurrence in Iceland than most of the world, this word is used internationally to signify the event of a glacial outburst flood.
In the beginning, we primarily used this word to describe the massive melt floods from the glacier Vatnajökull that are triggered by geothermal activity and subglacial volcanic eruptions, but now this term is used to describe any large flood release from a glacial body.
These floods are dangerous, and can occur at any glacial source- but we can at least positively credit them with the gift that is Gullfoss, our beloved golden falls.
How much water is in there, anyways?
Gullfoss boasts some of the greatest water volume in all of Europe! Typically, its flow is around 110 cubic meters per second. But depending on events in the life of the glacier, the volume can grow up to 2000 cubic meters per second. If you can imagine it, this means that Gullfoss could conceivably fill up almost 50 olympic sized swimming pools in a single minute. That’s almost one a second!
The time of year also has an impact on Gullfoss’ flow. In the winter when things are a bit more solid, we can expect a flow of 80 cubic meters per second. But in the warm temperate summer we can expect nearly 141.
The gorge that houses Gullfoss is approximately 32 meters tall to the top, so one can almost imagine the power generated by Gullfoss- which has been coveted by many who wish to harness it for energy and electricity.
Gullfoss is comprised of a three-step “staircase”, with two plunge points. These plunges are both 11 meters and 21 meters respectively, and they drop into a crevice that is nearly 20 meters wide and 2.5 kilometers in length.
Despite the incredible force of Gullfoss’ golden waters- it is still possible to enjoy activities further down the canyon in the foothills of the great giant. Paddling the rapids of this Icelandic treasure and getting a chance to jump down into the colorful depths is a rush like no other, especially if you think of those 50 olympic swimming pools while you’re in there!
Gullfoss in Hollywood and Legend
Due to its beauty and accessibility, Gullfoss has appeared in many popular forms of media over the years. You may recognize it on the album cover “Porcupine” by Echo and the Bunnymen, or even in the background of the music video for Live’s single “Heaven”. You can also see it in the TV series “Vikings”, and again in the hit animated TV series “Avatar: The Last Airbender”, in an animated scene where it lent the inspiration of its likeness to a waterfall backdrop near where Sokka learns to sword fight.
Mentioned also in popular text, Gulfoss features as Snorri’s favorite waterfall, in the novella The Odd Saga of the American and a Curious Icelandic Flock by E. E. Ryan. Though fleeting, these and many other artistic interpretations have honored Gullfoss over time.
Perhaps most notable among them all, is the true story of Sigríður Tómasdóttir. Considered to be one of Iceland’s first environmentalists, Sigríður fought to protect Gullfoss’ golden waters from harmful industrialization. Were it not for her valiant efforts, we would have lost Gullfoss long ago to a hydroelectric dam that would have submerged it.
Her tale is told many ways with many details- but the truth that rises from it is the work that she completed to protect this treasure of the Icelandic landscape- and so she is memorialized there near the falls on a sculpture crafted by Ríkarður Jónsson. The lawyer, Sveinn Björnsson, that aided her in her quest; went on to become the first president of Iceland.
It goes to show that Iceland’s true heart is stored and maintained in these natural treasures- and that the best tales of them all, are the fantastical truths of the ones who protect them.
PLAN YOUR JOURNEY
Travelling to Iceland?
Check our overnight tours with a driver guide that includes a one night stay in a bubble.*Starting from ISK 74.900 per person
